Ngaa Tenji Sherpa - Climb For Climbers: Opening The Route To The Summit Of K2


Ngaa Tenji Sherpa - Climber, Mountaineer and Organizer

Hello! Who are you and where are your hiking roots?

I am Ngaa Tenji Sherpa, born in a remote village of Nurbuchaur, Makalu, Nepal, at the base of Mt. Makalu. My father and mother were simple farmers.

There was a very informal learning center at our village and as a small kid I would attend classes once or twice a week, spending the rest of my time helping my parents in the fields and herding sheep. Our village is surrounded with the view of majestic mountains, which always left me captivated even as a child.

On the way to Everest Base Camp
On the way to Everest Base Camp

 

Almost at the summit of Mt. Everest
Almost at the summit of Mt. Everest

Radio was the only source of entertainment and information. I heard stories on the radio about the successful ascent of the high mountains by these brave men. I would also hear about the Sherpas. In my heart, I would tell myself that one day I would also be a climber.

At the age of 15, I came to Kathmandu with the help of my brother and joined English coaching class. At an age of 17, I first started working as a porter and along with it I also started undergoing trekking and mountaineering training.

I worked as a porter for many trekking groups in and around Nepal, until one day I got an opportunity to work as Climbing guide for Mera Peak at the age of 19. Then I slowly started climbing different peaks in Nepal, ultimately leading to climbing many 8000m peaks (i.e., Mt. Everest – 9 times, K2, Manaslu, Cho-Oyu).

When I started working, I realized that nature is the true definition of beauty. The mesmerizing view of the mountains, valleys and lakes captivated me and I fell in love with nature.

Show Summit
Show Summit

Going to the mountains with my clients and teams is always filled with excitement and even though I go to the same place again, it’s always a new adventure with new people. So, climbing is not only my job but also my passion.

I especially love to visit Manaslu region, Everest region and Annapurna region because of their beauty, unique culture and people. I would recommend all adventure lovers to visit these places at least once in a life.

What’s your Story From The Mountain?

I have been working in the field for almost 2 decades and in these years, there are many incidents that are still vivid in my memory. If I am supposed to share one, I think it will be the time when me, my own younger brother Lakpa Sherpa my team opened the route to the summit of Mount K2.

Me and my brother at the summit of Mt. K2
Me and my brother at the summit of Mt. K2

Mount K2 is one of the most technical peaks among the 8000 m around the world. From 2008 until 2011, no team was able to summit K2 from Pakistan side.

In 2012, me and my team were selected and given the task to open the route (fixing the rope to the summit for safety and guiding, which the climber uses to reach the summit) to the summit of K2. The climb to the summit was not an easy task. Being a leader means you are responsible for all those that follows you. The pressure was immense but we were well prepared and ready to take the task and give our best to fulfill it.

Chimney K2
Chimney K2

K2 is a very technical mountain. The whole climb to the summit is challenging but Chimney (between Camp I and Camp II), Black Pyramid (between Camp II and Camp III) and Bottleneck (between Camp 4 and summit) are the most challenging part of the climb and climbing with 20 to 25 kg (55lbs.) on our backs made it worst.

Also, when you finally cross the Black Pyramid, breaking the snow trail is very difficult. The weather on K2 is very unpredictable, which at times makes the situation worst. With team work and our dedicated efforts, me and my team finally opened the route to the summit of K2 on 31st July 2012.

Near Black Pyramid K2
Near Black Pyramid

The feeling of reaching the summit was indeed overwhelming but there was also a part that kept me aware that I need to lead my team safely back to the Base camp and there still time to celebrate as the quote by Ed Viesturs goes “Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.” 

Bottle Neck K2
Bottle Neck

After we finally opened the route, in that single day 28 climbers reached the top and made history. Many of those climbers were on mission to complete 14 peaks. The sad part is not the difficulty that we faced during the climb.

The sad part is neither we receive any appreciation or credit for our hard work nor we were given good allowance. Putting our own life in danger for someone else’s dream is what we do, without getting any credit for it.  But, in the end, me and my team completed our task and everyone safely returned back and celebrated the completion of our mission with the local people of Pakistan.

When I started working, I realized that nature is the true definition of beauty.

Since, I have started my own company I want to give good allowance and credit to all my Sherpa team. Let them know that their work is appreciated and encourage them to do better.

Through hiking/climbing, have you learned anything about yourself or nature you’d like to pass on to others?

All these years of working in the mountains, the most important thing that I have learnt is the value of life, importance of teamwork, honesty and dedication.

When I was in the mountains, I come across many life-threatening situations, which made me realize the value and importance of life. It helped me to learn the importance of living in the present and cherishing each and every moment of life.

I have been to so many expeditions, leading people from different age groups to the top of different mountains. When they choose to take me as their guide, it means they trust me with their dreams to summit that particular mountain and also their life.

All these years of working in the mountains, the most important thing that I have learnt is the value of life, importance of teamwork, honesty and dedication.

So, till the time I work in this field, I want to keep their trust intact and prove myself as Climber. I want to be remembered for my actions more than my words.

Mountains are indeed beautiful but they are dangerous. They offer with the challenges that fill your adventurous soul to the fullest. You can never be fully sure about what to expect when you go there.

As it is said, “Prevention is better than cure”, so if you love to explore nature always carry a first aid kit with yourself.

Even if it’s your 1st or even 10th time going there, you will always experience something different. Proper planning, preparation and readiness to face any challenges is what leads to a great adventure.

What’s your favorite item in your pack?

I can’t say that it is my favorite item in my backpack, but it is something that I must have when I go outdoors for any adventure trip and that is my First Aid Kit.

As it is said, “Prevention is better than cure”, so if you love to explore nature always carry a first aid kit with yourself.

If I were to give any item to other outdoors people, then it would be carabiner. It is a safety gear we as mountaineers must have

Do you have any advice for other hikers who are just starting out?

Even if I write essays about the beauty and benefits of exploring the Nature, it will not do justice to anything that you yourself can experience by being there.

So, take a break from your regular life and find time for yourself to explore. Start we simple hiking and I guarantee that you will fall in love with it.

We as humans have a habit of keeping things to be done for tomorrow, but as the famous saying goes, “Tomorrow never comes.'' So, pack your bags and head for small adventure on your own and the rest will follow. 

What have been the most influential hiking books, podcasts, or people?

I have not read any books about adventure. The things that I know is all due to the experiences that I have personally gone through.

During all these years, I have met many people who have influenced me in many ways. The one person that I want to mention here would be Mr. Anthony Gordon, who is the Managing Director of NothinButShort.

We as humans have a habit of keeping things to be done for tomorrow, but as the famous saying goes, “Tomorrow never comes.'' So, pack your bags and head for small adventure on your own and the rest will follow.

He actually knows what we have to go through to take people up the mountains and rescue them putting our life in danger. In this line of work honest appreciation and credit for all that we have done is very hard to get. He is the only person who has ever given sincere appreciation and encouraged us to work better.

He has not only inspired me but many other younger climbers are also inspired by him and his work. He has taught the whole community of Sherpa climbers about health, safety and honesty.

He has taught us what a true leader is. In 2016, he put forward a rescue mission along with our Sherpas who carried out more than 50 rescue operations in that spring season and help save 52 lives.

Where’s your next adventure?

As climbing is my profession and also business, my company will be organizing all the 8000 m expedition along with smaller peak climbing and trekking in and around Nepal.

I will be personally leading Mt. Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse Expeditions. Our team will leave Kathmandu and head to Everest Base camp on 8 April, 2020. I will spend almost 2 months in the mountain organizing and managing everything from Base camp to Summit and back to Base Camp.

It's always a fun and exciting experience to be in the mountains living each moment with new people. Also, the feeling that comes from seeing the happiness of my clients when they achieve their dreams and knowing that I was able to help them achieve it, cannot be explained in words.

pioneer adventure - My team preparing for next adventure
My team preparing for next adventure

Where can others learn more about you?

Instagram: @ngatenjisherpa

Facebook: Ngaa Tenji Sherpa

Website: www.pioneeradventure.com, https://www.pioneeradventure.com/team/ngaa-tenji-sherpa

Contact: +977-9860630783 (WeChat/Whatsapp)

Ngaa Tenji Sherpa - Makalu, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal
Ngaa Tenji Sherpa - Makalu, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal